This summer (just before the Brexit) we took a closer look at the British branch of the European ceramics history. England is a big island, too big to visit all the interesting ceramics museums and galleries in a few weeks summer vacation (see blog). Hard choices had to be made. Unfortunately no stopover in London. The largest ceramics collection in the world we leave for another time.
What did we visit? The heart of the ceramics industry in England: Stoke-On-Trent. As the followers of this blog already know, this city is also called “the Potteries” because of the large numbers of “potbanks” (ceramics plants) created in this area from the 18th century.
And how do you visit all that ceramics history? By bike of course!
Sea of Hull
With a packed bike we started out to the ferry in Hoek van Holland. Ok, not from Purmerend, but after a ride by train, we cycled from Delft to the harbor. And appropriate to travel from the heart of Dutch ceramics in the 17th century to the country that would take over the production of Delftware (in industrialized form) in the 18th century.
The ferry to Hull was a good choice for us. Bikes were easy to bring along and there was a good connection (by train) to the “West Midlands“. In addition, it also proved to be the right ecological choice for the crossing. Even more environmentally friendly than the HSL, according to ECO travel.
Another advantage of Hull: You can visit the Ferens Art Gallery. From the port you can cycle through a beautiful path along the mouth of the Humber to the centre. You can’t miss the Gallery.
A beautiful museum among others known as the client of Spencer Tunicks ‘Sea of Hull‘. We enjoyed the photos of this performance from 2016, the exposition and the permanent collection, including a terracotta from Aristide Maillol. Ceramics history can be found everywhere in England…
Cycling in Stoke-On-Trent
Hull is a train ride of about three hours (one time switching) from Stoke-on-Trent. You can take a bike for free on the train. But note: for some lines you have to book a bike spot, including the train via Manchester which we took….
“Get your kicks on Route 66” sang the Rolling Stones back in 1964. And that’s what we did on the National Cycle Network 66 in Stoke-On-Trent. Well it was actually route 55 which we used to cycle to the various museums. And now that I think about it, in 1964 this cycle route did not exist yet. Mick Jagger will have had a foresight…
Anyway, nowadays you can cycle fine in Stoke-On-Trent on these green bike/hiking trails. Even if, like me, you have a city bike with three gears (one of which is broken). These cycle routes are partly built on the former railway lines that provided the potbanks of coal. Today, they have been transformed into modern pilgrimage routes for ceramists.
The cycle route also uses the (narrow) paths along the canals. These waterways provided (with the help of narrowboats) The potbanks of clay and other raw materials. The final product (the ceramics) could also be safely transported. When you cycle on the route you can still see several historical bottle kilns and sometimes a potbank that the area still possesses. But beware of the sometimes very low tunnels you encounter on the way.
Cycling along ceramics history
As a ceramist there are many places to go along in Stoke-On-Trent. In my previous blog I made an overview. It’s ceramics history, research and if you go everywhere by bike, healthy too. For me an ideal combination: ceramics and and cycling in nature: Instant inspiration vitamins.
What I absolutely wouldn’t have wanted to miss? That’s hard to say, but if it was to me, I would choose The potteries Museum and Art Gallery . This museum in the center of Stoke-On-Trent (Hanley) has apart from industrial, other ceramic art. The collection ranges from archaeological ceramics, from about 4000 years old, to contemporary of famous “studio potters”.
If you want to learn more about the industrial ceramics history, a visit to the Gladstone pottery Museum is a must. This Potbank also highlights the dark sides of the ceramics history. The life of the workers and the inhabitants of Stoke at the beginning of the industrial revolution was everything but healthy.
If you have seen all seasons of “the Great Pottery Throwdown” you don’t want to miss “Middleport pottery“. This is a fully restored ceramics factory from 1889. It is perhaps the first modern assembly-line ceramic assembly factory in the world. And ceramics are still being produced there. However you must reserve a factory tour in advance.
Ceramics culture and the Brexit
Whatever you’re going to see in Stoke-On-Trent, you won’t excape the ceramics culture. Since the Bell Beaker culture about 4,500 years ago, England is part of the European ceramics history. The coming Brexit does not end there, the cultural ties with the Mainland are indissoluble.
In fact, the Netherlands has also contributed to this. Around 1600, Dutch ceramists have introduced the Delft Blue technique in Stoke-On-Trent. Without them, there might never have been English “Blue and White pottery“. Yes, they shoult be grateful to Dutch ceramists…
Oh, had I already told you that the “Delftware Technique” was brought by Antwerp (Belgium) ceramists to Delft around 1500? And the innovative Funnel-cup ceramics in Drenthe (Netherlands) by (probably) Eastern Europeans some 7,000 years ago?
Fortunately, developments in the ceramic culture have never been stopped by borders!
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