There are a lot of practical details involved in purchasing an electric ceramic kiln to fire your ceramics. The location where the kiln will be placed, the electrical outlet needed and the kiln controller. But also venting, stacking material and other tools. Not to mention the budget. In short, all details that are important to make the right choice if you want to invest in a new ceramic kiln.
I bought my first kiln 30 years ago and very recently my ceramics supplier Keramikos installed my new one. A lot of things have changed in the ceramics world in those years, but ceramic kilns are stills essential. What has also remained: you should inform yourself well before making this investment.
In the previous blog I discussed the importance of a good ceramic kiln supplier. In the blog before that I looked at the reasons for having your own kiln and what specific requirements you have. Discovering the most suitable kiln for your ceramic work: your personal “dream kiln”.
But we leave the daydreams behind us. Making ceramics is earthy, so you have to stand with both feet on the (clay) ground when choosing a kiln.
Si in this third blog practical tips to make a choice based on possibilities and preferences.
Type of electric ceramic kiln
The first practical consideration I made for this blog is the choice of an electric ceramic kiln. Within city limits this is a safe option.
This type is also easier to install and fire than other choices, such as gas, oil or wood kilns. But that does not mean that an electric ceramic kiln only needs to be installed and turned on.
Let me start with the two main types of electric kilns that are on the market for the artisan ceramist.
Toploader kiln
This type of kiln is usually round or oval. The main feature is that the kiln must be loaded “from the top”. This means that the door/lid is at the top. When comparing content and price, this type of kiln is generally the most economical choice.
Compared to frontladers, these kilns have a lower insulation value (more loss of heat during firing). But there are also toploaders that go for better insulation (such as the Rohde EcoTop).
Loading from above has advantages and disadvantages. The disadvantage is that the bottom kiln shelve is difficult to reach in a large kiln. The advantage is that you can clearly see from above whether the work is separate from each other (handy for the glaze firing).
Less suitable for very intensive use, but very popular with (artisanal) ceramists because of flexibility, large choice in size and price.
Frontloader kiln
This type of kiln is loaded “from the front” (via the “front door”:-) ). These are generally robust kilns with a long service life. A good insulation value and suitable for intensive use. Compared to the toploaders, the price (with the same inside size) is significantly higher.
They are (usually) larger kilns with a capacity of 100 to 1000 liter. Loading at the front has advantages, especially if the kiln is large. For even easier loading, there are models where you can slide out the bottom (“Ergo load” for example the Rohde ELS series).
The most important kiln specifications
Regardless of type of kiln, there are still a number of specifications that you should pay attention to when selecting and comparing.
The size of the kiln
The inside dimensions of the kiln is expressed in “litres” (in the EU). But the inner size is also expressed in cm, so that you can better determine how much or large work you can put in it. For example, a 125 liters kiln is 50 by 50 by 50 cm.
But before placing the kiln, you also have to take into account the outside dimensions. In addition, there should be about 30 cm (at least double at the top) space on all sides. If the wall or ceiling is made of combustible material, this distance must be increased.
Top temperature
The maximum and the regular operating temperature (Tanw) determines the temperature at which you can fire. If you want to fire stoneware or porcelain, this will have to be at least 1300 oC. But if you only want to make earthenware, this can be lower.
The kiln elements
The kiln elements heat the kiln. Nowadays these are (almost) always made of canthal wire (A1). But beware, the thickness, length and therefore the resistance differs per kiln. So if they need to be replaced, always mention the type of the kiln so that you install the right elements.
If the kiln has a different type of elements (such as nichrome or silicon carbide) always ask for the reason(s). Nichrome are cheap, but less durable, while silicon carbide elements are expensive, but have a very long service life.
Electricity connection
Small electric ceramic kilns up to approx. 50 to 70 liters (depending on top temperature) can be connected to a regular (grounded 230 volt, EU) socket. Preferably on a separate group in the circuit breaker panel of your house or studio. Keramikos also sells 100 liter kilns that can be placed on a specific breaker panel (Perilex 16A).
Larger kilns need 3 phase power current (400 volts), usually fused at 16 (CEE16) or 32 (CEE32) amps. And speaking of fuses, they must have a “C characteristic”. This means that they do not immediately pop out during a short-term peak current.
Finally, with home installations, you also have to take into account the main fuse. This may need to be changed or an additional power group to be added for the ceramic kiln.
Type of thermocouple
With the thermocouple you measure the temperature inside the kiln. There are different types. In Europe, the S type is usually preferred. In England the R type and in the US often the cheaper K type.
The K type is inaccurate at higher temperatures (more than approx. 1100 oC). The R and S types are fine to use at higher temperatures, but make sure that the controller is set to the right type.
Kiln controller
The kiln controller can usually purchased separate from the kiln. This is connected using a special plug. This kiln controller not only reads the temperature inside the kiln (via the thermocouple), but also determines the firing course (the firing program).
There are many different kiln controllers. It goes too far to discus this in this blog. I will therefore limit myself to saying that there are simple and more extensive kiln controllers.
So take a good look at which regulator suits your firing needs. And if desired, you can (usually) also order a different control device with the kiln than the standard (which usually has less options).
Installation of ceramic kiln and ventilation
So, we’ve had everything we need to make a good choice, right? Almost. Before you choose your electric ceramic kiln, take a good look at the space where you want to place it.
- Is there enough space (including the 30 cm distance to the walls)?
- Is the floor flat, sturdy and fireproof?
- Are the walls and ceiling fire resistant?
- Is there a fire and carbon monoxide detector?
- Is there ventilation?
On that last point, I would like to say a little more. Ventilation of the room is always good, especially if you also work in the room where you place the electric ceramic kiln. But you can also connect a fan directly to the kiln.
For example, the Rohde kilns have a special connection for this (with enough space for mixing with cooler air from outside the kiln, so that the fan motor does not melt). Ventilation is not only good for better air quality in the room where you are firing. Ventilating the kiln is also better for your elements.
Buy electric ceramic kiln
So, if the room where the kiln will be placed is also adequate (and the door in the room wide enough) then we can order the ceramic kiln, right? Absolutely!
Uh… at least if your budget allows it. That is the challenge for every ceramist, making a good investment choice based on wishes and possibilities.
I hope this blog gives you a better idea of what to look for when investing in a ceramic kiln. For financing you will have to look at the possibilities that you have. Keep in mind that a ceramic kiln lasts a long time and partly determines your options of what you can make.
So take a look at all the ceramic kilns you can choose from and be well informed by your supplier, as I have also been advised by Keramikos. They know a lot more about it than I do.
(You can’t know everything in the world of ceramics, but I do my best 🙂 )
Learned something from this blog? Give me a cup of coffee so I can write the next with new energy!
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