After visiting the birthplace of the European porcelain in Meißen, the nearby city of Dresden was next. There are lots of historical ceramics in this beautifull city. In “Florence on the Elbe” houses one of the largest porcelain collections of the world.
This collection was founded by the Imperial Vicar of Saxony August der Starke in the early 18th century. His porcelain collection was originally exhibited in the Japanische Palais. After the 2nd world war, the Zwinger Museum became it’s new home.
The collection consists of Chinese and Japanese porcelain from the 14th century. There is also the largest historical overview of Meissen’s porcelain (1710 – 1815). Including the animal collection that was exclusively made for the Imperial Vicar.
The Rehbocktal was our camping site just between Meißen and Dresden along the Elbe cycle route. A great opportunity to explore this route on bike to Dresden (about 23 kilometers along the Elbe). A beautiful path along a number of “biergartens” where fortunately coffee is also an option.
Zwinger museum
The Zwinger Museum is located in Dresden’s historical center, within walking distance of the Frauenkirche . It used to be a palace complex built for August der Starke (yes he again). The relocation of his porcelain collection to his former palace is a good choice.
Several museums are located in this complex. It was a bit of puzzle to find the right entrance of the porcelain collection. Once we did, we went straight to the East Asian wing of the collection. Here are many beautiful works from China (Ming Dynasty) and the Japanese porcelain from the 17th century.
Interesting is the “Jaspisporzellan” or currently called “Böttger steunzeug“. This is a very fine dark colored stoneware clay, apredecessor of the white porcelain from Böttger a few years later.
You can’t argue about taste
The collection also contains a large amount of historical Meissen porcelain. Dishes, (very large) vases and figurines. Lots are exuberant decorated with gold luster, colorful glazes and china paint. A combination of kitsch and show of power. Very popular within the nobility and rich of the era. 
The big animal figures are still impressive. Despite the cracks in the biggest of them. The technical knowledge was still not quite there. Porcelain has a shrinkage of more than 15%. During the firing process, cracks can occur in parts that are joined together or parts that have a different thickness. In the complex animal figures this was almost inevitable.
You can (‘t) argue about taste. Whether this is art or historical commercial kitsch, will always be disputed. One thing is certain, these works could only be paid by the very rich in order to increase their status. That isn’t a basis for relevant art. It’s definitely not my taste. But I have a lot of respect for the technical knowledge that the factory workers had to have to make this porcelain.
Modern art in Dresden
Is there nothing else but historical ceramics in Dresden? Of course not, for example the Museum of Modern Art: the Albertinum. 
If you have enough of sweet porcelain you can go there. Among other things, we visited an interesting exhibition about the pop culture in Berlin befor “die Wende“. There are also permanent collections like “Skulpturenhallen” with modern and contemporary sculpture. I even found a ceramic sculpture.
Contemporary ceramics in Dresden
But there are other ceramics in Dresden. By chance, we saw the announcement of the annual ceramics fair. At the statue of the Goldener Reiter in the Neustadt, in the first weekend of September.
It’s a cozy fair with about 70 differend ceramic artists. Most pottery with “steinzeug” (stoneware) and a few with contemporary porcelain. So Dresden is not only a city with a lot of historical ceramics. In the 21st century the ceramic tradition is alive and well. And not only made in factories, but also modern by hand.
Oh before I forget, who was the “golden rider” on the square? You guessed it, it was August der Starke again. I think, as he looks at the ceramics fair every year, now he will also appreciate the authentic contemporary ceramics.
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