Paris, center of fine arts in Europe, perhaps of the world (that is, in any case, the view of the “Parisien“). But it is also the city of ceramics, or as the French say “Cité de la céramique”. We visited the ceramics in Paris.
Also for the “céramique” Paris is “Tze place Tzo be“.
Between Paris and Versailles, on the Seine lies Sèvres; the porcelain capital of France. Here, since 1740, the French porcelain is produced for the state’s rulers. From Louis XV (“Le Bien-Aimé”) to Napoleon (the god of clay). But also for (court-) nobility and the rich bourgeoisie.
Nowadays, the museum “Sèvres-Cité de la Céramique is located in there. Just across the bridge “Pont de Sèvres” on the banks of the Seine at the gateway of Paris. In this museum you will find porcelain. But you can also see also a wide collection of historical and contemporary ceramics.
For a ceramist in Paris it is not a choice, I had to go here. But for the ceramics enthusiast it is also highly recommended.
Sèvres-Cité de la céramique
Luckily my trip to Paris was not only a working visit. There was time to discover the city of lights with my girlfriend. It had been years since we visited the French capital. Luckily our hotel, near Gare du Nord (the arrival station of the Thalys), was still where we left it. After a good night’s sleep, the adventure could begin.
I prefer to explore an unknown city by bike. That is not a problem nowadays in Paris. A “Vélib“(the Parisian white cycling plan) is easily found. Cycle paths have been built (not as extensive as Amsterdam, but the bus lanes are also accessible for cyclists). This is no luxury because traffic in Paris is a form of loosely directed anarchy. But if you “go with the flow”, you can maneuver your bike through it without problems.
From Gare du Nord it is about an hour biking to Sèvres (if you know your way, and don’t take a coffee-break as we did). The museum “Cité de la céramique” is just over the “Pont de Sèvres” on your right.
(or click this link, to watch the video directly on YouTube)
Ceramics history side by side
The museum’s permanent collection includes works from European Stone Age, ancient Egypt and antique Greece. A whole exhibition can be devoted to the fertility figurines from the late Paleolithic (35,000-10,000 BCE). But just these two primordial ceramic sculptures were enough to inspire me.
You can also find Egyptian blue (a natural self-glazed copper blue, also known as “Egyptian faience“) “Usjabti” of breathtaking beauty. These “chaouabtis” as the French say, are small grave-figurines, about 12,000 years old. And don’t forget the Greek red figure pottery. With their classical forms and finished with terra sigillata, they are still unsurpassed.
In addition, there are works from Middle Age Europe, Middle East, China and pre-Columbian ceramics from South America. Robust European pottery are in sharp contrast with refined, luster-decorated works of present-day Iraq and Iran and polished (unglazed) ceramics of the Incas.
Although technically less sophisticated, I can immensely enjoy the lead-green and iron-brown glazes from medieval European pottery. The colors are just as powerful as the day they were made ( by potters risking life and limb).
If that isn’t enough historical ceramics for you, there is still plenty more, including Delftware from “les Pays-Bas“.
Porcelain and contemporary ceramics
Of course there is also porcelain from Sèvres. Europe was not able to produce this “white gold”, like the Chines, until the 18th century. Copying the processes after the rediscovery in Meissen (Germany), from 1740 onward Sèvres also made porcelain products. From small figurines (with typical French scenes) to giant vases. Even by today’s standards these are still technical wonders.
However, these decors are a bit outdated nowadays . Luckily there are also wings with art nouveau and contemporary ceramics to be found (not only porcelain). Since it’s foundation, the porcelain factory has always worked with independent contemporary artists. Partly for this reason, the museum has a large collection from the 20th and 21st century ceramics.
Temporary exhibitions
The permanent collection of “Sèvres-Cité de la céramique” is a historical journey through the world of ceramics. Inevitably, the choices to be made are overwhelming . Which selection criteria where used, remains unfortunately a mystery. Despite this, a visit to the museum is worth you while. If only to see this enormous ceramics collection with your own eyes.
But that’s not the only thing this museum has to offer. There are also temporary exhibitions. When we visited “CERAMIX, de Rodin à Schütte” (9 March-6 June 2016) was shown. A fantastic exposition, which we had already visited In Maastricht (Bonnefantenmuseum). That’s why we skipped this one. A good thing too because seeing the permanent collection and the exhibition “CERAMIX” in one day doesn’t do justice to both.
The only thing missing from this museum is a coffee corner. Apart from a glass of water, there was nothing . A missed opportunity, because ceramics are not just art, some needs to come into contact with food and drink.
Ceramics the French way
France has a rich ceramic tradition, not only porcelain (“porcelain”), but also stoneware (“grès”), earthenware (“faïence”) and unglazed terracotta (“terre cuite”). In Paris (unfortunately) life is not only about ceramics, such as in “La Borne“. But that doesn’t mean that there is nothing to be found outside museum ceramics.
Even without looking, we came across handmade ceramics at small markets, a shop at Montmartre and a “Festival Antiquites et Contemporaine” at Parc Monceau. Art and Ceramics are alive in France and Paris.
Back home in rainy Netherlands, while working, I can still think of sunny ceramics in Paris.
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