What does a ceramics enthusiast look for in southern France? As a child in a candy factory. Just one problem. There is so much ceramics in the south of France that you can’t possibly see everything at once.
When I think of ceramics in the South of France, I smell the lavender mixed with goat cheese. Then I see green hills where rivers splash through the landscape. From a corner of my eye, a salamander shoots away, warming up to the sun’s rays shooting through the canopy. And just below it … lies gold. Black or white, it is for the taking or actually for excavation.
This is also the region where 500 years ago Bernard Palissy (1510-1590) grew up. The landscape he walked through looking for work. He didn’t only found work, he was also inspired by it. He went looking for his “Recepte Véritable“, the true recipe of the earth, ceramics, glazes and the rest of life.
I am always looking for the true recipe, so this summer I went to the country of Palissy with my girlfriend. … With in my pocket “an artist’s travel guide to the Ceramics Museums of Europe” (Don’t leave home without it).
Monflanquin, a bastide near Saint-Avit
Our journey began in the medieval Bastide village of Monflanquin. Founded in the 13th century on the hill Peche, it still has a beautiful view. Because it was on the frontline during the 100 year war between France and England in the 14th century, the French had fortified the village. Or to say it in French, the village transformed into a “Bastide“. We learned more about it during a visit to the local museum.
The village has hardly changed since this time. If you walk through the streets (carrerots) you end up in the Middle Ages. Especially during the annual Journées Médiévales Festival.
One of the carrerot bears the name of the ceramist who lured us to this region, Bernard Palissy. His supposed birthplace is no more than 10 kilometers away in the hamlet of Saint-Avis.
I will get back to this in a future blog.
A ceramics enthusiast in “Pays du Kaolin”
From Monflanquin the journey continued, to the land of white gold. Limoges? No our campsite was located on the bed of the Vienne In Aixe-Sur-Vienne at about 15 kilometers from Limoges.
The French call this region “Pays du Kaolin“; the land of kaolin. Since the 18th century, kaolin has been mined here, the most important ingredient of porcelain clay.
The origin of porcelain is in China, probably from 700 CE. Bötger (re)discovered the process in Europe in 1708 in Meißen (Germany). Despite extreme measures, the secret of porcelain production, the arcanum, ultimately fell into the hands of foreign powers.
From 1740, porcelain is also made in France, in Sèvres. And from 1800 there arose a porcelain industry in Limoges; near the place where the kaolin was mined (Saint-Yrieix-la-perche) and processed (Aixe-Sur-Vienne) to porcelain clay.
Coincidentally, a two minute walk from the campsite was an old kaolin factory (Usine de kaolin) from the beginning of the 19th century (ca. 1820). To this day, porcelain clay is produced there. A nice place for a selfie.
Unique porcelain kiln in Limoges
From the campsite we were able to cycle to Limoges about 15 kilometers downstream. After an hour and a few hills further on we came to Limoges , the city of art and fire (d’art et de feu).
Our first stop was “Le Musée du Four des Casseaux“. Here is a historic porcelain kiln, built around 1900. Unlike the “bottle kilns” that we had seen in England, this kiln consists of two combustion rooms one above the other. This allows the flames of the lower room (CA 1400 oC) to be used for the biscuit stoke (ca. 900 oC) in the upper room. Energy savings in 1900, the porcelain firers were trend setters.
In addition to the huge kiln (8 meters high) you can also see historical tools and instruments used in the production of porcelain. Finally, there is also a private collection of porcelain on display. In short, a museum that you shouldn’t miss when you visit Limoges.
Musée National Adrien Dubouché Limoges
Our second stop, after drinking a cup of coffee, was the Musée National Adrien Dubouché Limoges (former Musée national de la Porcelaine A. dubouché). This stately museum in the center of Limoges has a huge collection of porcelain from this region. But that’s not the only thing to see.
The museum shows the ceramics history in chronological order. Chinese porcelain, delft blue and modern ceramics from La Borne. The work of Pallissy (16th century) and his followers (from the 17th century to the present) can also be viewed here. This museum is therefore also a must for the ceramics enthusiast.
However, a warning is in place. Are you in addition to being a ceramics enthusiast, also addicted to coffee? Then you have bad luck in both museums. There is not even a coffee corner (okay, a water point, but I find that a bit scanty).
Luckily, next to the “Musée du Four” is a McCafé where you can get a good latte macchiato and the “Musée National” is located in the center. So take precautions and drink your coffee beforehand or between 12:30 and 14:00 hours (both museums are closed then!).
The black gold of La Borne
And what about the black gold? Indeed, that is why we had to go to La Borne, a historic pottery village, on our way back. Ceramists have been using this black stoneware clay (grès) in these mountains since the 13th century.
I have previously written a blog about this inspiring village, so I will limit myself this time with the remark that if you are there, you must visit “Le Centre céramique contemporaine“. There are changing exhibitions of contemporary ceramics and a well-stocked book department. There is even a coffee corner!
And the true recipe of Palissy?
I found my inspiration in the landscape, history and culture in southern France. The true recipe of the earth, ceramics, glazes and the rest of life I have not yet found. But the journey is more important than the destination.
Did Palissy found His “recepte véritable“? I write about that in my next blog (died glaze secrets)…
My Etsy Shop is open again
The last few weeks my Etsy shop was closed, but now I’m back and at work.
Also a ceramics enthusiast? Then take an online look at my shop. Who knows you can find something unique(s) of céramiques…
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